Rat & Mice Proofing

Repairs To Rat Entry Points Devon & Cornwall

Repairs To Rat Entry Points

If you have rats in your home or attic, they are getting in somewhere, and usually several places.

In order to keep them out permanently, all of the entry points into your home must be completely

sealed and rat-proof. This is the area in which we truly excel, and it is why we are the best. We

perform an extremelydetailed inspection of the home in order to find every single entry point that

the rodents are using. We use our years of experience in order to locate those tricky areas that rats

can squeeze into - areas as small as 1/2 inch, and we seal them correctly.

All of the trapping, poisoning, deodorizing spray, etc. in the world isn't as effective as physically restricting the rats from entering the building. Repairs are an essential part of rat control work, and the part that requires the most expertise and experience. Believe me, we've been on jobs in years past in which the problem couldn't get solved - until we found that last impossible to find and seal area. We have seen it all, and we know how to find and seal every spot. Some companies just want to be lazy: they set a few traps, or worse, set poison. Even the companies that say they can seal the holes usually overlook many, many areas and do an inferior job. Get it done right, and your problem will be 100% solved - PERMANENTLY.

In our mouse & Rat proofing we find and seal off all access point that mice & Rat might have. Whether it be a chewed hole or a building imperfection. We will find it and repair it. Although many company claims they are the best at finding and solving these problems. We know better after all we end up fixing many mistakes made by others. Understanding that mice & rats are sneaky and great contortionist will help you find their entry points. Our years of experience have taught us never to underestimate the cunningness of the mouse or rat. Standard rules say a mouse fits into a quarter size hole or ½ inch hole. Experience has told us rats don't care what size the hole is, after all they can always make it bigger. Standard rules are for standard companies. We are not your standard company, we go above and beyond to solve your problem.

The most successful and long lasting form of rat control in buildings is to "build them out." Seal cracks and openings in building foundations, and any openings for water pipes, electric wires, sewer pipes, drain spouts, and vents. No hole larger than 1/4 inch should be left unsealed to exclude both rats and house mice. Make sure doors, windows, and screens fit tightly. Their edges can be covered with sheet metal if gnawing is a problem. Coarse steel wool, wire screen, and lightweight sheet metal are excellent materials for plugging gaps and holes. Plastic sheeting, wood, caulking, and other less sturdy materials are likely to be gnawed away.

Because rats (and house mice) are excellent climbers, openings above ground level must also be plugged. Rodent proofing against roof rats usually requires more time to find entry points than for Norway rats because of their greater climbing ability. Roof rats often enter buildings at the roof line area so be sure that all access points in the roof are sealed. If roof rats are travelling on overhead utility wires, contact Dartmoor pest control or the utility company for information and assistance with measures that can be taken to prevent this.

Rodent Proofing Your Home

*Repair or replace damaged ventilation screen around the foundation and under eaves.

*Provide a tight fitting cover for the crawl space.

*Seal all openings around pipes, cables, and wires that enter through walls or the foundation.

*Be sure all windows that can be opened are screened and that the screens are in good condition.

*Make sure internal screens on roof and attic air vents are in good repair.

*Cover rooftop plumbing vent pipes in excess of 2 inches in diameter with screens over their tops.

*Make sure all exterior doors are tight fitting and weatherproofed at the bottom.

*Seal gaps beneath garage doors with a gasket or weatherstripping.

*Install self-closing exits or screening to clothes dryer vents to the outside

.*Remember that pet doors into the house or garage provide an easy entrance for rodents.

*Keep side doors to the garage closed, especially at night.

Population Control

When food, water, and shelter are available, rat populations can

reproduce and grow quickly. While the most

permanent form of control is to limit food,

water, shelter, and access to buildings,

direct population control is often necessary.

BEFORE: Rats could enter the home through this wire hole behind the kitchen stove.

AFTER: I seal the hole and install metal flashing to keep rats out permanently.

Phase 1: The Soft Plug Test (Crucial Step)

Do not seal the hole immediately. If you seal a live rat inside

your wall, it will either die and smell terrible or chew a new

exit hole through your interior drywall.

The Test: Wad up a ball of newspaper or paper towel
and stuff it loosely into the hole.
The Wait: Leave it for 2–3 days.
The Result:
- If the paper is pushed out or moved: You still have
- active rats. You must use a one-way exclusion door
- (allows them out but not back in) or trap them before sealing.
- If the paper is untouched: The hole is likely inactive, and it is safe to seal.

Phase 2: Gather Your Materials

Rats can chew through wood, plastic, standard spray foam, and even soft concrete. You need specific materials.

The Barrier (pick one):
- Copper Mesh (Recommended): Unlike steel wool, copper does not rust. It is easier to work with and won't leave rust stains on your siding/stucco.
- Stainless Steel Wool (Grade Medium/Course): Effective, but can rust if it’s standard steel wool. Ensure it is stainless if exposed to rain.
- Hardware Cloth (1/4 inch): Galvanized wire mesh, best for large holes or behind vinyl siding.
The Sealant (pick based on your wall):
- Exterior Silicone Caulk: For small gaps and holding mesh in place.
- Hydraulic Cement / Mortar Repair: For brick or concrete walls.
- Expanding Foam (Pest-Block grade): Only use this to hold the wire mesh in place; never use foam alone.

Phase 3: Step-by-Step Sealing Process

Step 1: Clean Safely (Health Warning)

Rat urine and droppings can carry diseases like Leptospirosis.

Wear gloves (rubber/latex).
Do not sweep or vacuum dry droppings (this releases virus particles into the air).
Spray the area with a bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water) to wet it

down before wiping it away.

Step 2: Insert the Core Barrier

Rats cannot chew through steel/copper mesh because it cuts their gums.

Pack the hole tightly with your Copper Mesh or Steel Wool. Use a screwdriver to push it deep into the crevice.
The "Prickle" Rule: Ensure the mesh is packed tight enough that a rat cannot pull it out, but leave a rough surface. The sharp edges deter gnawing.

Step 3: Weatherproof & Finish

The finish depends on your exterior wall type:

Wall TypeMethod

Brick / ConcretePush the wire mesh in about 1 inch deep. Mix a small batch of Hydraulic Cement or use Mortar Repair (in a caulk tube) to fill the remaining inch. Smooth it over with a putty knife for a clean finish.

Vinyl SidingDo not just plug the visible hole; rats often travel behind the siding. You may need to unclip the siding piece. Place 1/4" Hardware Cloth over the hole in the wood sheathing behind the siding, screw it in, and then clip the siding back on. If filling a gap at the trim, stuff with copper mesh and seal with clear silicone.

Stucco / WoodPack the hole with mesh/wool. Use an exterior-grade caulk or wood filler to seal over the mesh. If the hole is large, you may need to screw a metal plate over it and paint it to match the house.

Phase 4: Common Mistakes to Avoid

Using Spray Foam Only: Rats love chewing this. It feels like nesting material to them. It must always be reinforced with wire mesh.
Leaving "Ladders": Check if there are trellises, ivy, or tree branches near the hole. Rats are excellent climbers; cut these back to prevent them from reaching the repaired area.
Ignoring the Foundation Line: Check where the house meets the ground. If you find a burrow there, fill it with gravel and top with cement; dirt alone is too easy to dig out.